Chicago HVAC News

Tempo went hunting for the Chicagoan who has the lowest carbon footprint. We found him: Ken Dunn, who rides his bike year-round, eats homegrown vegetables and otherwise leads a sustainable lifestyle.

By Nara Schoenberg | Chicago Tribune reporter September 23, 2008

Ken Dunn, who is considered the greenest person in Chicago, eats discarded or expired food that he stores in his refrigerator. (Tribune photo by Zbigniew Bzdak / September 2, 2008)

How green is Ken Dunn?

Greener than the social worker who last year commuted 16 miles a day by bike in the dead of winter.

Greener than the woman whose rooftop solar panels generate so much electricity she donates the excess to Commonwealth Edison.

Greener than the Chicago apartment-dweller who composts his own urine and excrement.

And in an age when Hollywood celebrities are flaunting their hybrid cars and brandishing their reusable shopping bags, Dunn, who grew up on a Kansas farm, whittled down his carbon footprint the old-fashioned way: by riding a beat-up old bike, air-drying his clothes, eating the vegetables he grows in his backyard and heating his home with a wood-burning furnace.

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A properly maintained heating system is likely to work better and last longer. It can also save your life: Malfunctioning systems increase the risk of carbon-monoxide (CO) poisoning and cause some 6,000 fires and $47 million in property damage each year, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

The best time to check your system is before you turn it on. Simple steps include changing or cleaning furnace filters and dusting heat registers or baseboard radiators. Older systems might require blower-motor or water-pump lubrication. Replace batteries in digital thermostats and CO alarms and smoke alarms. Then hire a pro for an annual checkup.

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Heat pumps and oil-fired furnaces and boilers need a yearly professional tune-up. Gas-fired equipment burns cleaner; it should be serviced every other year.

Step 1
A close inspection will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical contacts and frayed wires. In furnace (forced-air) and boiler (hot-water) systems, the inspection should also cover the chimney, ductwork or pipes, dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or radiators, the fuel line and the gas meter or oil tank, as well as every part of the furnace or boiler itself.

Step 2
Next, the system should be run through a full heating cycle to ensure that it has plenty of combustion air and chimney draft. Contractors use smoke pencils to check for sufficient draft and also test the air for carbon monoxide.

Step 3
Finally, it’s time for the down and dirty task of cleaning the burner and heat exchanger to remove soot and other gunk that can impede smooth operation. For the burner, efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas or changing the fuel filter in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should include an inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and outdoor coils and refrigerant lines. Indoor and outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant pressure should be checked. Low pressure indicates a leak; to locate it, contractors feed tinted refrigerant into the loop and go over it with an electronic detector.

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Fueled by gas, electricity, or oil, a forced-air distribution system is just what the name implies. Air is forced from the furnace through ducts to registers in various rooms. Besides warming the air, the blower system that distributes the warmed air also returns the cold air to the furnace so it can be rewarmed and distributed to the rooms again.

A forced-air system is also efficient for distributing cool air from a central air conditioner with the same ducts, registers, and blower. There is little that can go wrong with a forced-air system. The big problems typically include noise and blockage of airflow, usually caused by dirt or by furniture or draperies blocking the registers. Forced-air systems should be cleaned and maintained regularly. Floor registers are slip-fit into ducts or are held by retaining screws on the frame of the register. Wall and ceiling registers are also held in place by retaining screws on the frame of the register. Duct joints are usually slip-fit and held with sheet-metal screws or duct tape. The ducts are supported by wire or metal strap hangers nailed or screwed to wooden framing members such as studs and rafters. All of these parts are easy to disassemble. Lay them out in order as you work so you’ll be able to reassemble them properly.

A problem can arise with this type of system in which the temperature of different rooms varies widely.

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Although an electric heating system does have advantages, its operating cost generally makes it less desirable than any of the other furnace systems available today. The high cost means that minimizing heat loss caused by improperly installed ducts or inadequate insulation is even more important than with other types of systems.
For maximum energy efficiency, have a professional service person clean and adjust your electric furnace every year before the beginning of the heating season. Do not attempt any repairs to the heating elements, electrical connections, relays, transformers, or similar components of an electric furnace; repairs to these components must be made by a professional service person.
The controls of an electric furnace may be mounted on the surface of the housing or installed behind an access panel on the front of the furnace. The access panel may be slip-fit on hooks fastened to the furnace housing with a series of sheet-metal screws. To remove the access panel to the blower, filter, and blower motor, slip the panel up off hooks or remove a series of sheet-metal screws.

Fuses

Electric furnaces are fused at a building’s main electrical service entrance. Many electric furnaces are on separate circuits, sometimes located in a separate fuse box away from the main panel. The heating elements of the furnace are also fused, and these fuses are located on a panel that is on or inside the furnace housing.

If changing the fuses or resetting the breakers does not restore power to the furnace, call a professional service person. Do not attempt to repair heating elements, the transformer, heating relays, or power relays. Repairs to these components must be made by a professional service person.

Now that we’ve run the entire furnace gamut, your home should be nice and toasty all winter long. Though major furnace repairs to a furnace are best left to a professional, you should be able keep those house calls to a minimum with our maintenance tips.

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Oil-fired burners are used in many parts of the country as the basic heat source for warm air and hot water heating systems. Most of the home oil systems in use today are called pressure burners. In this type of system, oil is sprayed into a combustion chamber at high pressure, propelled by a blower, and ignited by an electric spark.

The oil continues to burn as the mist is sprayed. While there aren’t many quick fixes you can undertake yourself on these types of furnaces, good regular maintenance can help eliminate many problems. Here are a few oil furnace maintenance tips:
Oil Furnace Care Guide
From annoying noise to low heat, there are many problems that can strike your oil furnace. Click here for instructions on how to deal with specific issues.

* During the heating season, check the smoke from the chimney. If the smoke is black, the furnace is not burning the oil completely and fuel is being wasted. Call a professional service person for adjustments.

* Clean the blower at the beginning of the heating season and again about midway through the season.

* Clean soot from the stack control about midway through the heating season.

* If the blower motor has grease or oil fittings, lubricate the fittings midway through the heating season with cup grease or 10-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil), available at hardware stores.

* Clean the thermostat before each heating season.

Most oil furnaces in use today are called pressure burners.
© 2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Most oil furnaces in use today are called pressure burners. In this type of system,
oil is sprayed into a combustion chamber at high pressure.

An oil furnace is a complex assembly. The maintenance and repair work for this type of furnace is limited to simple parts: the filters, the blower, the motor belts, the switches, and the thermostat. Electrodes, an oil nozzle, air tubes, a transformer, a pump, and other components require special tools and testing equipment and are best left to a professional for service.

To become familiar with your oil furnace, remove the access panel covering the burner blower by removing the retaining screws around the rim of the housing. You can access the air blower and filter through a metal panel on one side of the furnace. The panel is held by either hooks or retaining bolts; slip the panel up and off the hooks or remove the bolts and lift the panel off. Most furnaces have switches and reset buttons located on the motor or in a switch box outside the furnace housing. These are usually identified with stampings or labels, such as DISCONNECT SWITCH, RESET, and so on. The stack control sensor, a safety device that monitors burner operation, is positioned in the stack and held with a series of retaining bolts.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to check the oil filter:

* Wrench
* Screwdriver
* Replacement filter and gaskets

Oil Filters

The oil filter should be changed or cleaned at the start of the heating season and about midway through the season. Here’s how to clean or replace the filter:

Step 1: Close oil shutoff valve between fuel tank and filter.

Step 2: Unscrew bottom or cup of filter housing, and remove filter.

Step 3: If filter is disposable, insert new one of same size and type. If furnace has permanent filter, clean filter according to furnace manufacturer’s recommendations.

Step 4: Replace old filter gaskets with new ones.

Step 5: Screw in bottom of housing, and open oil shutoff valve.

Clean the pump strainer after cleaning the oil filter.
© 2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Clean the pump strainer after cleaning the oil filter. To reach the strainer,
unbolt the cover of the pump housing and lift off the cover.
Some oil furnaces have a pump strainer, which is located on the pump attached to the burner/ blower unit. Clean this strainer when you clean the oil filter. Here’s how:

Step 1: Unbolt cover of pump housing (where oil line enters burner), and lift off cover.

Step 2: Remove thin gasket around rim. Find and remove strainer, which is a cylindrical or cup-shape wire mesh screen.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to clean the pump strainer:

* Wrench
* Kerosene
* Old, soft toothbrush
* Replacement pump strainer and gasket

Step 3: Soak strainer in kerosene for several minutes to loosen any built-up sludge. Carefully clean strainer with old, soft toothbrush.

Step 4: Inspect strainer. If it’s torn or badly bent, replace it with new pump strainer of the same type.

Step 5: Set strainer into place on pump, place new gasket on rim, and bolt cover of pump housing back on.

Switches

Some oil furnaces have two master switches. One is located near the burner unit, and the other is near the furnace housing or even at a distance from the furnace. Make sure these master switches are both turned to the ON position.

Stack Control

The stack control of the oil furnace, located in the stack, is a safety device that monitors the operation of the oil burner. If the burner fails to ignite, the stack control shuts off the motor. Frequently, however, a furnace shutdown is caused by a malfunctioning stack control rather than by the burner.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to check the stack control:

* Wrench
* Brush
* Soapy water
* Soft cloth
* Newspaper
* Refractory cement

If the burner fails to ignite, first check the fuel tank and refill it if necessary. If the tank doesn’t need to be refilled, press the reset button on the stack control. If the burner doesn’t ignite after you’ve pressed the button once, clean the control, as detailed below. Then press the reset button again. If the burner still doesn’t operate, call a professional service person.

The stack control gradually becomes coated with soot during the heating season. To keep it working properly, clean the control every month or as soon as it becomes soot-covered. Here’s how to clean the stack control:

Step 1: Remove bolts that hold control in stack. Pull out sensor and its housing.

Step 2: With brush dipped in soapy water, remove all soot from control. Wipe control dry with soft cloth.

Step 3: Before replacing control, clean stack. Spread newspaper to protect floor, then disassemble stack. As you work, remove soot and debris from each section by tapping them firmly on newspaper-covered floor.

Step 4: After cleaning sections, reassemble them in reverse order. Make sure stack sections are properly aligned and firmly connected.

Step 5: Finally, reposition stack control in stack, and reseal connection to chimney with refractory cement.

To remove the stack control, turn off the power to the furnace, then back out the bolts.
© 2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Clean the stack control every month. To remove the control, turn off the power
to the furnace, then back out the bolts that hold it in the stack.
Some oil furnaces have an electric-eye safety switch instead of a stack control. This switch serves the same function as the stack control. If the burner has an electric-eye safety, remove the access cover over the photocell; it is held by hooks or retaining screws. Wipe the cover clean to remove accumulated soot. Reassemble the switch, replace the cover, and turn the power back on. If the burner still doesn’t ignite, call a professional service person.

If the stack control or electric-eye safety switch is especially dirty, the furnace may not be properly set to burn the fuel completely. In this case, call a professional service person for adjustment.
Caution: Do not attempt to replace these controls yourself.

Draft Regulator

The draft regulator, located on the stack, is closed when the burner is off but opens automatically to let air into the chimney when the burner is turned on. Accumulated soot and rattling are signs that the draft regulator needs to be adjusted. Too much air in the chimney wastes heat; too little air wastes fuel by failing to burn it completely. To increase the airflow, screw the counterweight inward. To decrease airflow, turn the counterweight outward. The draft regulator should be adjusted by a professional service person as part of regular annual maintenance.

Limit Switch

The limit switch is a safety control switch and is located on the furnace just below the plenum. If the plenum gets too hot, the limit switch shuts off the burner. It also shuts off the blower when the temperature drops to a certain level after the burner has shut off. If the blower runs continuously, either the blower control on the thermostat has been set to the ON position, or the limit control switch needs adjustment.

To determine the problem, check the thermostat. If the blower control has been set to ON, change it to AUTO; if blower control is already on AUTO, the limit switch needs adjusting. To do this, remove the control’s cover and find the toothed dial underneath. One side is marked LIMIT; don’t touch this side. The other side is marked FAN. There are two pointers on the fan side; the blower turns on at the upper pointer setting and shuts off at the lower pointer setting. Pointers should be set about 25 degrees apart. Set the upper pointer at about 115 degrees Fahrenheit and the lower one at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Burner Adjustment

Do not try to adjust the burner of an oil furnace; call a professional service person.

Finally, we have electric furnaces and heaters. Electric heat is in some ways much simpler than either gas or oil, but it can still have its fair share of problems.

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Natural gas and propane burn cleaner than fuel oil, and most gas furnaces present fewer operational difficulties than oil burners do. In fact, the problems that affect gas furnaces typically involve the furnace’s thermocouple, the pilot light, or some component of the electrical system.

Gas furnaces and heaters have control shutoffs to prevent gas leaks, but they are not fail-safe. If you smell gas in your house, do not turn any lights on or off, and do not try to shut off the gas leading to the furnace. Get out of the house, leaving the door open, and immediately call the gas company or the fire department to report a leak. Do not re-enter your home.On some gas furnaces and heaters, a plug-type door covers the pilot light assembly. To gain access to the pilot burner, pull the door out of the furnace housing. On other units, remove the panel that covers the pilot and gas burners.

The pilot light controls, reset buttons, gas valves, and thermocouple are usually contained in an assembly at the front of the furnace. The furnace limit switch is located on the plenum (main chamber) or main duct junction on the upper housing of the furnace.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to check the pilot light:

* Matches
* Fine wire

The Pilot Light

The pilot light on a gas furnace can go out because of drafts. To relight the pilot, follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly; they are usually fastened to the furnace. If instructions for relighting the pilot are not provided, follow this general procedure:

Step 1: Find pilot light assembly. It typically has a gas valve with on, off, and pilot settings.

Step 2: Turn valve to off and wait three minutes.

Step 3: Switch valve to pilot setting. Hold lighted match to pilot opening while you push reset button on pilot control panel. Keep this button depressed until pilot flame burns brightly, then set valve to on position.

Step 4: If pilot flame won’t stay lit, opening may be clogged. Turn gas valve off, and clean opening with piece of fine wire. If it won’t stay lit after several attempts, you may have faulty thermocouple. If pilot flame still won’t stay lit, call professional service person.

Some furnaces have an electrical system to ignite the gas; in these systems there is no pilot light. Instead, an electric element heats up and ignites the burners. If this electric ignition system malfunctions, call a professional service person.

Replacing the Thermocouple

The thermocouple is a gas furnace component located near the pilot light burner. It is a safety device that shuts off the gas if the pilot light goes out or the electric igniter fails.

If the pilot light won’t stay lit, the thermocouple may be faulty and should be adjusted or replaced. To adjust the thermocouple, you must tighten the thermocouple nut with a wrench. Take care not to apply too much pressure to the nut — just tighten it slightly. Then try lighting the pilot. If the pilot won’t stay lit, replace the thermocouple with a new one of the same type. Here’s how to replace a thermocouple:

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to replace a thermocouple:

* Wrench
* Replacement thermocouple

Step 1: Unscrew copper lead and connection nut inside threaded connection to gas line. Under mounting bracket at thermocouple tube, unscrew bracket nut that holds tube in place.

Step 2: Insert new thermocouple into hole in bracket. Be sure steel tube is up and copper lead is down. Under bracket, screw bracket nut over tube. Push connection nut to threaded connection where copper lead connects to gas line. Make sure connection is clean and dry.

Step 3: Tightly screw nut into place, but do not over-tighten. Both bracket nut and connection nut should be only a little tighter than if hand-tightened.

The thermocouple is installed next to the pilot light on a gas furnace.
© 2006 Publications International, Ltd.
The thermocouple is installed next to the pilot light. A bracket holds
it in place, steel tube up and copper lead down.
Limit Switch

The limit switch is a safety control switch located on the furnace just below the plenum. If the plenum gets too hot, the limit switch shuts off the burner. It also shuts off the blower when the temperature drops to a certain level after the burner has shut off. If the blower runs continuously, either the blower control on the thermostat has been set to the ON position or the limit control switch needs adjustment. Check the thermostat first. If the blower control has been set to ON, change it to AUTO; if the blower control is already on AUTO, the limit switch needs adjusting.

Gas Furnace
Care Guide
There are a myriad of problems that can cause your gas furnace to malfunction. Click here for instructions on how to deal with specific issues.
To adjust the switch, remove the control’s cover. Under it is a toothed dial with one side marked LIMIT; don’t touch this side. The other side of the control is marked FAN. There are two pointers on the fan side; the blower goes on at the upper pointer setting and turns off at the lower pointer setting. The pointers should be set about 25 degrees apart. Set the upper pointer at about 115 degrees Fahrenheit and the lower one at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Burner Adjustment

The flames on the gas burner should be full and steady, with no sputtering and no trace of yellow. To adjust the flame height on the main burners, call a professional service person. To adjust the height of the pilot flame, turn the flame adjustment screw until the flame is from 11/2 to 2 inches high. The adjustment screw is located near the gas valve on the pilot assembly, if the control has this adjustment feature.

Gas Leaks

If you suspect leaks around the furnace unit, stir up a mixture of liquid detergent and water. Paint this mixture on the gas supply line along its connections and valves; the soapy water will bubble at any point where there’s a leak. If you find a leak, try tightening the leaking connection with a pipe wrench, but be careful not to overtighten the connection. If the pipe connections or valves still leak, call a professional service person.

An oil furnace has an entire new set of the problems from the ones we’ve just conquered in gas furnaces.

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Heating systems are usually trouble-free and easy to maintain. Efficient operation is a function of good regular maintenance. No matter what type of furnace you have, there are several things you can do to keep your heating system in top condition. In this article, we will tell you how to service and troubleshoot your furnace, regardless of the type. Before we get to the troubleshooting, let’s start with some steps you can take before your furnace shuts down. Cleaning a Furnace

Dirt is the biggest enemy of your furnace. It can waste fuel and drastically lower efficiency. Dirt affects all three basic components of your furnace, so cleaning is the most important part of regular maintenance. The three parts of the furnace should be cleaned: the filter system, the blower, and the motor.

The furnace filter should be replaced or cleaned at the beginning of the heating season and about once a month during periods of continuous use. To check the filter, take it out and hold it up to the light. If it looks clogged, replace it with a new filter of the same type and size regardless of the length of time it has been used.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to clean a furnace filter:

* Screwdriver
* Replacement filter
* Toothbrush
* Vacuum cleaner
* Clean rags

A disposable furnace filter consists of a fiber mesh in a cardboard frame. The size of the filter is printed on the edge of the frame. An arrow on the edge of the frame indicates the correct direction of airflow through the filter. Air flows from the return-air duct toward the blower, so the arrow on the filter should point away from the return-air duct and toward the blower.

A permanent filter is usually sprayed with a special filter-coating chemical, available at hardware stores and home centers. Clean this type of filter according to the manufacturer’s instructions, which are usually attached to the furnace housing. Here’s how to replace a filter:

Step 1: Look for metal panel on front of furnace below return-air duct, between duct and blower system. Panel may be marked filter, or it may form lid or front of boxlike projection on furnace housing.

Step 2: Slip panel off its holding hooks, or unscrew panel from box or furnace housing. On some heating units, filters are exposed; just slip filter up and out of U-shape tracks that hold it in place.

Three parts of the air-moving system should be kept clean: filter, blower, and blower motor.

Step 3: Inspect and replace or clean filter, depending on type.

Step 4: Clean blower assembly, belts and pulleys to blower, and motor housing. Cleaning blower is critical if furnace has a squirrel-cage fan, because openings in this type of blower often become clogged with dirt. To clean blower, remove panel that covers filter to gain access to blower or panel on front of furnace. This panel may be slip-fit on hooks or held by series of retaining screws. Access to inside of blower is usually gained by sliding out fan unit, which is held on track by screws.

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Heating systems are usually trouble-free and easy to maintain. Efficient operation is a function of good regular maintenance. No matter what type of furnace you have, there are several things you can do to keep your heating system in top condition. In this article, we will tell you how to service and troubleshoot your furnace, regardless of the type.

When a heating or cooling system malfunctions, any one of its three components — heat/cold source, distribution system, or thermostat — may be causing the problem. If the furnace or air conditioner doesn’t run, the malfunction is probably at the source. The furnace or air conditioner may have lost power. Fuel may not be reaching the unit. If the fuel is gas or oil, it may not be igniting. If the furnace or air conditioner turns on but the warm or cool air isn’t reaching the rooms of your home, the problem is likely to be the blower or distribution system. And a faulty control, or thermostat, could keep the system from turning on or could cause it to turn on and off repeatedly. Whatever the problem, start with the simplest procedures. In most cases, all it takes is patience and common sense.Before you start work on a heating or cooling system, take these preliminary steps:

* Make sure the unit is receiving power. Look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel. Some furnaces have a separate power entrance, usually located at a different panel near the main entrance panel. Some furnaces have fuses mounted in or on the unit.
* If the unit has a reset button, marked RESET and near the motor housing, wait 30 minutes to let the motor cool, then press the button. If the unit still doesn’t start, wait 30 minutes and press the reset button again. Repeat at least once more.
* If the unit has a separate power switch, make sure the switch is turned on.
* Check to make sure the thermostat is properly set. If necessary, raise (or, for an air conditioner, lower) the setting 5º.
* If the unit uses gas, check to make sure the gas supply is turned on and the pilot light is lit. If it uses oil, check to make sure there is an adequate supply of oil.

There are also several important safety factors to remember:

* Before doing any work on any type of heating or cooling system, make sure all power to the system is turned off. At the main electrical entrance panel, trip the circuit breaker or remove the fuse that controls the power to the unit. If you’re not sure which circuit the system is on, remove the main fuse or trip the main circuit breaker to cut off all power to the house. Some furnaces have a separate power entrance, usually at a different panel near the main entrance panel. If a separate panel is present, remove the fuse or trip the breaker there.
* If the fuse blows or the circuit trips repeatedly when the furnace or air conditioner turns on, there is a problem in the electrical system. In this case, do not try to fix the furnace. Call a professional service person.
* If the unit uses gas and there is a smell of gas in your home, do not try to shut off the gas or turn any lights on or off. Get out of the house, leaving the door open, and immediately call the gas company or the fire department to report a leak. Do not reenter your home.
* To keep your heating and cooling systems in top shape, have them professionally serviced once a year. The best time to have a furnace serviced is at the end of the heating season. Because this is the off-season, you can often get a discount, and service is likely to be prompt. Have your air conditioner checked at the same time.

The heat/cold source is the most complicated part of the heating and cooling system, and it’s the part most likely to suffer from neglect. Problems in this area may also lead to distribution problems. Whatever heat/cold source your system uses, give it regular attention to prevent problems.

Dirt is the biggest enemy of your home’s heating and cooling system. It can waste fuel and drastically lower efficiency. Dirt affects all three basic components of the system, so cleaning is the most important part of regular maintenance. Lubrication and belt adjustment at the furnace are also important.

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The very best idea for central heating maintenance is to have a service professional out to give your system a checkup. HVAC contractors regularly handle these exact tasks, and they can provide you with a thorough check of your system and ensure that it will run effectively all winter.

Listed below are a few steps you can follow to help your unit run properly.
Before the first frost, test you heater to see if it runs. Contact a professional if you don’t feel any warm air coming from the vents.

Check the pilot light if you have a natural gas system. The flame should always be clear blue. A yellow or orange flame could be a sign of a problem.

Always change your furnace filters each year. Dirty filters cause the unit to work harder to push the warm air through the filter, causing your unit to run less than efficiently and possibly break down.

As with air conditioning, make sure there are no drapes, furniture, or plants blocking the vents. Proper flow of air from the vents will ensure that the heat coming from the system will get out into all the spaces that need it

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OK Kids are about to get back to school.

With outside temps starting to dip into the 50s at night it will soon be heating season. Are you ready to warm things up in your house? Ok this may be too soon, but it is never too early to insure that your heating system is in top shape.

OK so how does heating your house have anything to do with being green?

Heating efficiency has everything to do with being green. Losing heat out the chimney wastes energy. Losing heat out through the walls and ceiling is also wasteful. Using an electric heater…well you get the drift.
There are things you can do now that will save you on energy costs over the winters.

Before it gets too cold are your windows sealed properly? I had new energy efficient windows installed two years ago. I noticed some needed to have the caulking fixed. Anyone can perform this easy repair and caulking is cheap. Of course be careful on the ladder for those high up windows.

Is your house insulated properly? In some cases you can do this yourself. Especially up in the attic. Getting a professional opinion for outside walls that have little to no insulation may be well worth in the long run.

How about your forced air furnace? Have you replaced the filter? This should be done at least once per year. At best twice per year. Especially if it is a long hard heating season like it was last year in upstate NY.

Let’s not forget the furnace cleaning. I have a maintenance contract that includes an annual cleaning. This keeps the furnace running in top form. When they clean the furnace they also can usually spot trouble before it starts.

Insulated and efficient: How’s that for being green.

We replaced our old heat pump with a new energy efficient model recently. The system uses the original ducts. When we start our system after it has been idle for several days we notice what seems to be a mildew smell coming from the ducts. After a while the odor goes away. The old heat pump didn’t seem to do this.

I have sprayed disinfectant into the air return and into the area around the condensing unit with not much success. We have owned the home - built in the 1980s - for four years built and, as far as I know, the ducts have never been cleaned. We lived in our other house for years and never had the ducts cleaned.

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No matter what the age of your furnace, you can improve energy efficiency by keeping it in good working order. A few simple furnace maintenance tasks will ensure you’re getting the most for your energy dollar.

We will take you though a couple simple things.

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Before chilly autumn nights set in, you need to make an appointment for your furnace’s annual checkup. Without this yearly cleaning and inspection, a system can wear itself out quickly, pump deadly carbon monoxide into your home, or simply stop working.

We asked This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey to show us the proper steps that a service professional would follow for an oil-burning forced-air furnace; the basics on a gas system are similar. In both, fuel is mixed with air and ignited, heating a sealed chamber. Fresh, filtered air then blows across the outside of the hot chamber and into the heating ducts. (Homes with radiators have boilers instead of furnaces. These heat water instead of air, but the annual checkup is similar.) In all, the dangerous exhaust from the combustion chamber is vented out a flue or chimney.

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