Chicago HVAC News

Most people know the importance of servicing your boiler to maintain a healthy central heating system. One way of ensuring the user sticks to the schedule of periodic servicing is to use the service interval time controls as a reminder, to ensure they keep to the recommended servicing schedule.

Over the last several years we have seen a major drive towards upgrading old boilers to new high efficiency boilers to save energy and reduce carbon emissions. Still, there was notably little focus put on the importance of regular boiler maintenance and central heating system servicing.

Regular servicing of your domestic boiler and central heating system is essential for the following reasons:

* Ensure that the boiler delivers good output even at maximum load times. Good maintenance ensures the system is efficient and reliable throughout the year, and delivers good performance even in the coldest winter days.

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Do I need a heating boiler repair contract?

More and more organizations are offering up boiler maintenance and repair contracts. You can avert the unpredicted costs of a boiler breakdown by paying a small monthly charge which will increase somewhat if you also include a boiler service alternative. You are able to choose from a wide range of contracts at differing cost points and service grades. The choice may initially befuddle you but when you have had the time to peruse the insurance policies you will see that at the centre they are really similar.

Unannounced central heating boiler breakdown cover and repairs.

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If you are searching for boiler repairs, boiler installations or any central heating installation, look no further than The Academy of Heating Ltd. The Academy of Heating Ltd is the first choice for customers all over the UK. Our clients trust our company for all their central heating requirements because they know that with The Academy of Heating Ltd, they will be receiving a standard of customer care and attention that is second to none.

When you use The Academy of Heating Ltd for your heating requirements, you can be safe in the knowledge that you will be afforded this great level of service from a company with over 14 years of experience in the heating industry.

The Academy of Heating Ltd is a Corgi Registered and gas certified heating company providing everything from boiler repair to heating installation and much more. The Academy of Heating Ltd provides this service 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and 365 days a year. For extra convenience, we were the first company of a type to provide a guaranteed maximum 2 hour waiting time for all call outs.

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It’s getting cold, that means we are all rediscovering our central heating after the summer lay off. This includes your tenants. Not wishing to scare landlords here is a list of the cost of rectifying common boiler faults. Landlords it’s time to get saving unless you can persuade your tenants to go green and dispense with central heating and hot water altogether!

Expert, Corgi registered gas engineer Brian Philmore, rates the common boiler faults in order of the problems he most commonly faces.

Printed circuit board
£220 to replace. The PCB is the heart of the boiler, connecting everything together. Without it the boiler can’t function.

Automatic air vent
£85 to replace. An automatic air vent lets out air that collects within the boiler.

Pump
£200 to replace. The pump moves the heated water from the boiler through the pipe work to the radiators, and back to the boiler for re-heating.

Overheat thermostat
£95 to replace. The overheat thermostat is a safety device to stop the boiler overheating if the control thermostat fails.

Heat exchanger
£350 to replace. Heats the water by transferring energy from the gas, if this goes it can be very expensive to replace.

Expansion vessel
£140 to replace. The expansion vessel stops the heating system from being over-pressurized.

Gas valve
£180 to replace. The gas valve regulates the flow of gas to the burner.

Burner
£150 to replace. Mixes air and gas to be burned inside the boiler.

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Today’s process and heating applications continue to be powered by steam and hot water. The mainstay technology for generating heating or process energy is the packaged firetube boiler. The packaged firetube boiler has proven to be highly efficient and cost effective in generating energy for process and heating applications.

Conducting a thorough evaluation of boiler equipment requires review of boiler type, feature and benefit comparison, maintenance equirements and fuel usage requirements. Of these evaluation criteria, a key factor is fuel usage or boiler efficiency.

Boiler efficiency, in the simplest terms, represents the difference between the energy input and energy output. A typical boiler will consume many times the initial capital expense in fuel usage annually. Consequently, a difference of just a few percentage points in boiler efficiency between units can translate into substantial savings. The efficiency data used for comparison between boilers must be based on proven performance to produce an accurate comparison of fuel usage. However, over the years, efficiency has been represented in confusing terms or in ways where the efficiency value did not accurately represent proven fuel usage values. Sometimes the representation of a boiler efficiency does not truly represent the comparison of energy input and energy output of the equipment.

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Many dwellings are currently centrally heated. With a couple of small changes to the central heating controls the system can be made much more energy efficient. Installation of a basic timer or a more complex heating system programmer will allow you to moderate when the heating and the hot water are operating. Fixing the periods when energy is actively being used will definitely cut your charges.

Room thermostats which automatically turn the heating off at a particular temperature will also preserve energy. energy use is limited to that required to preserve in the room warmth level at the set level. Each areas temperature can be individually manipulated by fitting radiator thermostat valves. This is a recommended way of holding the bedroom temperatures lower than that in the ground floor areas.

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In the current economic conditions, the cost of replacing entire heating systems can be prohibitive. Facilities managers are faced with difficult decisions regarding the most cost effective method for overcoming failing old heating systems. There are several issues when it comes to changing the entire heating system.

A common problem is that when the boiler plant is nearing the end of its life, the distribution system still appears to be OK. However there are always concerns about dirt being transferred from the existing system into new boiler plant.

The whole system including the boiler can be changed or a retrofit new boiler can be installed and connected onto an old system. Replacing the whole heating system is however very costly and, if the rest of the building isn’t being refurbished, it can create all sorts of problems with closures due to structural work or removal and replacement of pipe work.

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A boiler is an important component of a heating system used in homes, buildings, industries and in making hot water. It is the part that contains water and moves heat in the form of steam from a fuel source such as oil, gas or coal to provide warm air. This is often found in hot water heating systems that convert heated water into steam and returns it to the source to be reused when the air gets cooler.

Specifically, a boiler works by burning natural gas, oil or wood pellet to heat water that goes through hot water tubes or cylinders, radiators or underfloor systems. Boilers can be energy efficient if well maintained, properly set up and their insulation intact and sealed well.

In most residential and small commercial applications, boilers can produce hot water at around 160 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit which is then circulated throughout the system using a pump. At temperature above 212 degrees Fahrenheit, steam is produced.

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US Solar Heating proudly introduces two new solar air heating products to supplement their wall and roof installation systems. These new products continue US Solar Heating’s mission to make solar heaters affordable and easy for anybody who wants to use solar thermal energy.

- Portable Unit
Pick up and go on the road with the renewable power of solar energy. Weighing in at 10 lbs this unit delivers output temperatures of up to 130 degrees Fahrenheit. It is designed to be used in an RV, boat, camper, pop-up, tent, etc. The portable unit from US Solar Heating can replace a possibly dangerous space heater and burns no gas and requires no electricity. Order yours today before your next trip.

Have Solar Air Heater – Will Travel

- Window Unit
Want to add solar heat to your condo or apartment but your building will not allow you to drill holes through a wall or roof. The new Window Unit from US Solar Heating is the perfect solution for you. It is the easiest way to add solar air heating to your a residence. There is no installation needed. Just set ii on your windowsill and forget it. Students can even use it in their dormitory.

Renters, students, outdoors-people, RV enthusiasts, and all others can benefit from these products.

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This suburban Chicago basement was uncomfortably cold with inadequate heating vents providing little control over the room temperature. Resting on a cold concrete slab, the basement became an unused, unliveable room in the house. The homeowner, Heidi, decided to take matters into her own hands and turn the room into a liveable space for the whole family to enjoy time together.

To accomplish this, she installed an Environ II radiant floor heating system under her new free-floating laminate floor. When asked how she first learned about floor heating, Heidi responded “I lived in Germany where most houses have radiant floor heating, so I know all about warm floors.”

Before the flooring contractor installed the laminate wood, Heidi’s husband, Terry, first covered the entire basement floor with a layer of cork insulation . Then he laid out the Environ II radiant floor heating system right over it, all in one day! “Because the concrete slab acts as a heat sink, WarmlyYours recommended we install cork to maximize energy efficiency.” Terry added “Putting in the warm floor was much easier than I thought.”

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Well the forecast for Chicago heating bills is estimated to be 10 to 15% higher then last years heating bills, according to Peoples Gas. So, here are some ways that you can implement reduction of heat loss and curb that new “appreciated” bill that will be coming soon to your mailbox:

* Lowering your thermostat by one degree can save as much as 3 to 5 percent on the average heating bill
* Replace your furnace filters four times a year. If you can’t remember when to do it, either put the schedule on your Blackberry or when the season changes, the filter changes.
* Have the furnace cleaned every year for efficiency.
* Replace your old windows to energy efficient Low “E” Windows
* Outlet insulators
* Wrap that hot water tank!
* Attic insulation - this is where the heat escapes! By maintaining or adding adequate insulation is the smartest move you can make and the cheapest.
* And for those of you who don’t want to pull out that window air unit - why are you heating the outside.

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Heat pumps and oil-fired furnaces and boilers need a yearly professional tune-up. Gas-fired equipment burns cleaner; it should be serviced every other year.

Step 1
A close inspection will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical contacts and frayed wires. In furnace (forced-air) and boiler (hot-water) systems, the inspection should also cover the chimney, ductwork or pipes, dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or radiators, the fuel line and the gas meter or oil tank, as well as every part of the furnace or boiler itself.

Step 2
Next, the system should be run through a full heating cycle to ensure that it has plenty of combustion air and chimney draft. Contractors use smoke pencils to check for sufficient draft and also test the air for carbon monoxide.

Step 3
Finally, it’s time for the down and dirty task of cleaning the burner and heat exchanger to remove soot and other gunk that can impede smooth operation. For the burner, efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas or changing the fuel filter in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should include an inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and outdoor coils and refrigerant lines. Indoor and outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant pressure should be checked. Low pressure indicates a leak; to locate it, contractors feed tinted refrigerant into the loop and go over it with an electronic detector.

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Hot water and steam systems work similarly, but neither are typically installed in newer homes. However, because both are still in existing homes, here are some maintenance tips for them.

Because water retains heat, it is used to store and distribute heat in home systems. There are two types of hot water systems: the gravity system and the hydronic or forced hot water type. Hot water heating systems can be powered by gas, oil, or electricity. Gravity systems depend on the upward flow of hot water to circulate heated water from the boiler through a system of pipes to radiators in the rooms of your home. The better radiators for hot water systems are called convectors. These units employ a series of fans to disperse the heat.

The heat from the water in the radiators or convectors is transferred first to the metal radiators and then to the air. As the water loses its heat, it sinks and flows back to the boiler through return pipes. Most gravity systems heat the water to no more than about 180 degrees Farenheit, and cooled water that goes back to the boiler rarely falls below 120 degrees Farenheit.

Hydronic hot water systems use a motor-driven pump to move the hot water.

Open gravity systems have an overflow outlet to let water escape; this prevents a buildup of excess pressure in the system. Closed systems have a sealed expansion tank; when water pressure builds up in the system, the excess water flows into the expansion tank to prevent damage to the pipes or the boiler. Hydronic hot water systems are much like closed gravity systems, except a hydronic system uses a motor-driven circulating pump to move the water. As a result, water in a hydronic system moves more rapidly and arrives at the room radiator with less heat loss than water in a gravity system.

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A heat pump not only heats your home during the winter, it also cools it during the summer. It does not burn fuel to produce heat nor does the electricity it consumes go through an element. The heat pump functions on the same principle as refrigerators and air conditioners: A liquid absorbs heat as it turns into a gas and releases heat as it returns to a liquid state.

During the summer, the heat pump operates as a standard central air conditioner: It removes heat from the house and vents it to the outside. A liquid refrigerant is pumped through an evaporator coil of tubing. The liquid expands as it moves through the coil, changing to its gaseous state as it absorbs heat from the air surrounding the coil.A blower then pushes air around the cooled coil through ducts and into the house. The gas, now carrying considerable heat, moves through a compressor and begins the liquefying process. It then moves to a condensor coil outside the house, where the compressed gas releases its heat and returns to a liquid state.

During the winter, the heat pump reverses this process, extracting heat from the cold air outside and releasing it inside the house. The heat pump is very efficient when the outside temperature is around 45 degrees Farenheit to 50 degrees Farenheit, but it becomes less efficient as the temperature drops. When the outside air temperature is very low, an auxilery electric heater must be used to supplement the heat pump’s output.

Like standard electric heating systems, this auxilery unit is more expensive to operate. Thus, in areas where the winter temperature is below freezing, a heat pump is not practical. It has few advantages over conventional heating systems in areas where air conditioning is not necessary, but it is very efficient in warm to hot climates.

Heat pump maintenance is important. Small problems that are not addressed early can lead to very expensive compressor problems later. And since maintaining a heat pump is more technical than caring for the average heating system, you should call a professional service person when the pump malfunctions. You can, however, keep the system free of dirt by keeping the filter clean and by removing any other obstacles to the flow of air.

Proper outdoor maintenance of a heat pump is also important.

Oil-fired burners are used in many parts of the country as the basic heat source for warm air and hot water heating systems. Most of the home oil systems in use today are called pressure burners. In this type of system, oil is sprayed into a combustion chamber at high pressure, propelled by a blower, and ignited by an electric spark.

The oil continues to burn as the mist is sprayed. While there aren’t many quick fixes you can undertake yourself on these types of furnaces, good regular maintenance can help eliminate many problems. Here are a few oil furnace maintenance tips:
Oil Furnace Care Guide
From annoying noise to low heat, there are many problems that can strike your oil furnace. Click here for instructions on how to deal with specific issues.

* During the heating season, check the smoke from the chimney. If the smoke is black, the furnace is not burning the oil completely and fuel is being wasted. Call a professional service person for adjustments.

* Clean the blower at the beginning of the heating season and again about midway through the season.

* Clean soot from the stack control about midway through the heating season.

* If the blower motor has grease or oil fittings, lubricate the fittings midway through the heating season with cup grease or 10-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil), available at hardware stores.

* Clean the thermostat before each heating season.

Most oil furnaces in use today are called pressure burners.
© 2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Most oil furnaces in use today are called pressure burners. In this type of system,
oil is sprayed into a combustion chamber at high pressure.

An oil furnace is a complex assembly. The maintenance and repair work for this type of furnace is limited to simple parts: the filters, the blower, the motor belts, the switches, and the thermostat. Electrodes, an oil nozzle, air tubes, a transformer, a pump, and other components require special tools and testing equipment and are best left to a professional for service.

To become familiar with your oil furnace, remove the access panel covering the burner blower by removing the retaining screws around the rim of the housing. You can access the air blower and filter through a metal panel on one side of the furnace. The panel is held by either hooks or retaining bolts; slip the panel up and off the hooks or remove the bolts and lift the panel off. Most furnaces have switches and reset buttons located on the motor or in a switch box outside the furnace housing. These are usually identified with stampings or labels, such as DISCONNECT SWITCH, RESET, and so on. The stack control sensor, a safety device that monitors burner operation, is positioned in the stack and held with a series of retaining bolts.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to check the oil filter:

* Wrench
* Screwdriver
* Replacement filter and gaskets

Oil Filters

The oil filter should be changed or cleaned at the start of the heating season and about midway through the season. Here’s how to clean or replace the filter:

Step 1: Close oil shutoff valve between fuel tank and filter.

Step 2: Unscrew bottom or cup of filter housing, and remove filter.

Step 3: If filter is disposable, insert new one of same size and type. If furnace has permanent filter, clean filter according to furnace manufacturer’s recommendations.

Step 4: Replace old filter gaskets with new ones.

Step 5: Screw in bottom of housing, and open oil shutoff valve.

Clean the pump strainer after cleaning the oil filter.
© 2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Clean the pump strainer after cleaning the oil filter. To reach the strainer,
unbolt the cover of the pump housing and lift off the cover.
Some oil furnaces have a pump strainer, which is located on the pump attached to the burner/ blower unit. Clean this strainer when you clean the oil filter. Here’s how:

Step 1: Unbolt cover of pump housing (where oil line enters burner), and lift off cover.

Step 2: Remove thin gasket around rim. Find and remove strainer, which is a cylindrical or cup-shape wire mesh screen.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to clean the pump strainer:

* Wrench
* Kerosene
* Old, soft toothbrush
* Replacement pump strainer and gasket

Step 3: Soak strainer in kerosene for several minutes to loosen any built-up sludge. Carefully clean strainer with old, soft toothbrush.

Step 4: Inspect strainer. If it’s torn or badly bent, replace it with new pump strainer of the same type.

Step 5: Set strainer into place on pump, place new gasket on rim, and bolt cover of pump housing back on.

Switches

Some oil furnaces have two master switches. One is located near the burner unit, and the other is near the furnace housing or even at a distance from the furnace. Make sure these master switches are both turned to the ON position.

Stack Control

The stack control of the oil furnace, located in the stack, is a safety device that monitors the operation of the oil burner. If the burner fails to ignite, the stack control shuts off the motor. Frequently, however, a furnace shutdown is caused by a malfunctioning stack control rather than by the burner.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to check the stack control:

* Wrench
* Brush
* Soapy water
* Soft cloth
* Newspaper
* Refractory cement

If the burner fails to ignite, first check the fuel tank and refill it if necessary. If the tank doesn’t need to be refilled, press the reset button on the stack control. If the burner doesn’t ignite after you’ve pressed the button once, clean the control, as detailed below. Then press the reset button again. If the burner still doesn’t operate, call a professional service person.

The stack control gradually becomes coated with soot during the heating season. To keep it working properly, clean the control every month or as soon as it becomes soot-covered. Here’s how to clean the stack control:

Step 1: Remove bolts that hold control in stack. Pull out sensor and its housing.

Step 2: With brush dipped in soapy water, remove all soot from control. Wipe control dry with soft cloth.

Step 3: Before replacing control, clean stack. Spread newspaper to protect floor, then disassemble stack. As you work, remove soot and debris from each section by tapping them firmly on newspaper-covered floor.

Step 4: After cleaning sections, reassemble them in reverse order. Make sure stack sections are properly aligned and firmly connected.

Step 5: Finally, reposition stack control in stack, and reseal connection to chimney with refractory cement.

To remove the stack control, turn off the power to the furnace, then back out the bolts.
© 2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Clean the stack control every month. To remove the control, turn off the power
to the furnace, then back out the bolts that hold it in the stack.
Some oil furnaces have an electric-eye safety switch instead of a stack control. This switch serves the same function as the stack control. If the burner has an electric-eye safety, remove the access cover over the photocell; it is held by hooks or retaining screws. Wipe the cover clean to remove accumulated soot. Reassemble the switch, replace the cover, and turn the power back on. If the burner still doesn’t ignite, call a professional service person.

If the stack control or electric-eye safety switch is especially dirty, the furnace may not be properly set to burn the fuel completely. In this case, call a professional service person for adjustment.
Caution: Do not attempt to replace these controls yourself.

Draft Regulator

The draft regulator, located on the stack, is closed when the burner is off but opens automatically to let air into the chimney when the burner is turned on. Accumulated soot and rattling are signs that the draft regulator needs to be adjusted. Too much air in the chimney wastes heat; too little air wastes fuel by failing to burn it completely. To increase the airflow, screw the counterweight inward. To decrease airflow, turn the counterweight outward. The draft regulator should be adjusted by a professional service person as part of regular annual maintenance.

Limit Switch

The limit switch is a safety control switch and is located on the furnace just below the plenum. If the plenum gets too hot, the limit switch shuts off the burner. It also shuts off the blower when the temperature drops to a certain level after the burner has shut off. If the blower runs continuously, either the blower control on the thermostat has been set to the ON position, or the limit control switch needs adjustment.

To determine the problem, check the thermostat. If the blower control has been set to ON, change it to AUTO; if blower control is already on AUTO, the limit switch needs adjusting. To do this, remove the control’s cover and find the toothed dial underneath. One side is marked LIMIT; don’t touch this side. The other side is marked FAN. There are two pointers on the fan side; the blower turns on at the upper pointer setting and shuts off at the lower pointer setting. Pointers should be set about 25 degrees apart. Set the upper pointer at about 115 degrees Fahrenheit and the lower one at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Burner Adjustment

Do not try to adjust the burner of an oil furnace; call a professional service person.

Finally, we have electric furnaces and heaters. Electric heat is in some ways much simpler than either gas or oil, but it can still have its fair share of problems.

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Natural gas and propane burn cleaner than fuel oil, and most gas furnaces present fewer operational difficulties than oil burners do. In fact, the problems that affect gas furnaces typically involve the furnace’s thermocouple, the pilot light, or some component of the electrical system.

Gas furnaces and heaters have control shutoffs to prevent gas leaks, but they are not fail-safe. If you smell gas in your house, do not turn any lights on or off, and do not try to shut off the gas leading to the furnace. Get out of the house, leaving the door open, and immediately call the gas company or the fire department to report a leak. Do not re-enter your home.On some gas furnaces and heaters, a plug-type door covers the pilot light assembly. To gain access to the pilot burner, pull the door out of the furnace housing. On other units, remove the panel that covers the pilot and gas burners.

The pilot light controls, reset buttons, gas valves, and thermocouple are usually contained in an assembly at the front of the furnace. The furnace limit switch is located on the plenum (main chamber) or main duct junction on the upper housing of the furnace.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to check the pilot light:

* Matches
* Fine wire

The Pilot Light

The pilot light on a gas furnace can go out because of drafts. To relight the pilot, follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly; they are usually fastened to the furnace. If instructions for relighting the pilot are not provided, follow this general procedure:

Step 1: Find pilot light assembly. It typically has a gas valve with on, off, and pilot settings.

Step 2: Turn valve to off and wait three minutes.

Step 3: Switch valve to pilot setting. Hold lighted match to pilot opening while you push reset button on pilot control panel. Keep this button depressed until pilot flame burns brightly, then set valve to on position.

Step 4: If pilot flame won’t stay lit, opening may be clogged. Turn gas valve off, and clean opening with piece of fine wire. If it won’t stay lit after several attempts, you may have faulty thermocouple. If pilot flame still won’t stay lit, call professional service person.

Some furnaces have an electrical system to ignite the gas; in these systems there is no pilot light. Instead, an electric element heats up and ignites the burners. If this electric ignition system malfunctions, call a professional service person.

Replacing the Thermocouple

The thermocouple is a gas furnace component located near the pilot light burner. It is a safety device that shuts off the gas if the pilot light goes out or the electric igniter fails.

If the pilot light won’t stay lit, the thermocouple may be faulty and should be adjusted or replaced. To adjust the thermocouple, you must tighten the thermocouple nut with a wrench. Take care not to apply too much pressure to the nut — just tighten it slightly. Then try lighting the pilot. If the pilot won’t stay lit, replace the thermocouple with a new one of the same type. Here’s how to replace a thermocouple:

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to replace a thermocouple:

* Wrench
* Replacement thermocouple

Step 1: Unscrew copper lead and connection nut inside threaded connection to gas line. Under mounting bracket at thermocouple tube, unscrew bracket nut that holds tube in place.

Step 2: Insert new thermocouple into hole in bracket. Be sure steel tube is up and copper lead is down. Under bracket, screw bracket nut over tube. Push connection nut to threaded connection where copper lead connects to gas line. Make sure connection is clean and dry.

Step 3: Tightly screw nut into place, but do not over-tighten. Both bracket nut and connection nut should be only a little tighter than if hand-tightened.

The thermocouple is installed next to the pilot light on a gas furnace.
© 2006 Publications International, Ltd.
The thermocouple is installed next to the pilot light. A bracket holds
it in place, steel tube up and copper lead down.
Limit Switch

The limit switch is a safety control switch located on the furnace just below the plenum. If the plenum gets too hot, the limit switch shuts off the burner. It also shuts off the blower when the temperature drops to a certain level after the burner has shut off. If the blower runs continuously, either the blower control on the thermostat has been set to the ON position or the limit control switch needs adjustment. Check the thermostat first. If the blower control has been set to ON, change it to AUTO; if the blower control is already on AUTO, the limit switch needs adjusting.

Gas Furnace
Care Guide
There are a myriad of problems that can cause your gas furnace to malfunction. Click here for instructions on how to deal with specific issues.
To adjust the switch, remove the control’s cover. Under it is a toothed dial with one side marked LIMIT; don’t touch this side. The other side of the control is marked FAN. There are two pointers on the fan side; the blower goes on at the upper pointer setting and turns off at the lower pointer setting. The pointers should be set about 25 degrees apart. Set the upper pointer at about 115 degrees Fahrenheit and the lower one at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Burner Adjustment

The flames on the gas burner should be full and steady, with no sputtering and no trace of yellow. To adjust the flame height on the main burners, call a professional service person. To adjust the height of the pilot flame, turn the flame adjustment screw until the flame is from 11/2 to 2 inches high. The adjustment screw is located near the gas valve on the pilot assembly, if the control has this adjustment feature.

Gas Leaks

If you suspect leaks around the furnace unit, stir up a mixture of liquid detergent and water. Paint this mixture on the gas supply line along its connections and valves; the soapy water will bubble at any point where there’s a leak. If you find a leak, try tightening the leaking connection with a pipe wrench, but be careful not to overtighten the connection. If the pipe connections or valves still leak, call a professional service person.

An oil furnace has an entire new set of the problems from the ones we’ve just conquered in gas furnaces.

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