Chicago HVAC News

What do you do if you wake up to a cold house and the furnace isn’t running? Follow these checklists before you call the service company.

1. Check the thermostat. Is it set to “heat?” Is it set higher than the room temperature indicated on the dial? If it’s a digital thermostat, is the battery dead?

2. Check the on-off switch on the side of the furnace or near the furnace.

3. For a gas-fired furnace or boiler, check the furnace pilot light. If it’s out, light it, following the instructions on the furnace. If there is not pilot light, you have spark ignition or a hot surface igniter; the igniter should be hot or sparking as the furnace attempts to fire.

4. For a gas-fired furnace, is the gas off at the furnace or to your home? You can check this by seeing if the stove’s gas supply is on.

5. Is the breaker or fuse to the furnace turned off? Reset the breaker or re place the fuse; if it trips again, call a service technician.

6. Check the furnace fan compartment door. Some units have a safety switch that turns the furnace off when the door is ajar.

7. Check for a broken belt or a severely clogged air filter.

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Shut Down Problems

This problem is also an easy one, which is similar to the first problem. All you have to do is remove your unit’s thermostat cover, then follow the said steps in the first problem. But, in this case, what you have to do is turn the clockwise to “SHORTER”, instead of moving it toward “LONGER”. This should fix your problem. If it doesn’t just repeat the steps until you get it working.

No Heat Generation If your unit is not generating heat, then the problem is most probably the pilot light. Try to checking out your pilot light and see if it is turned on or if it is out. If you found it to be out, then you would have to relight it. In case you do not know how to relight it, simply consult your unit’s manual or contact your manufacturer. This is a relatively easy task that you can do by simply following some simple instructions.

No Air

If your unit is running but doesn’t blow any air, then here is how you repair it. First, you should turn off the power of your unit. Also, you should turn off the gas from the gas valve which is serving your furnace. Then, remove the door of your furnace cabinet so you can have access to your blower.

When you already have full access, check out the number that is stamped on the belt of your furnace. Then, go to your local shop and get an exact replacement of the belt.

Once you’ve got the replacement belt, then go back to your furnace cabinet and install the new belt. Generally, you can just slip it on your motor’s smaller pulley then put it on your motor’s blower pulley. Try rotating the blower pulley using your hand, while you hold the belt in place. Be careful from having your fingers caught though.

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A lot of people consider the furnace as one of their home’s most important equipments, which is very much true most especially during cold winter months, when getting some heat intake is very important. Additionally this is the very reason why knowing how to fix your furnace in case some troubleshooting problems arise can be very invaluable.

On And Off Problems

If your furnace keeps on turning on and off, this is usually just a simple problem with the unit’s heat anticipator. To start repairing, simply locate your thermostat and open it. When you open the box, you will see inside a small disk that is located in the middle. Take a good look at the disc. You will see that it has a number of calibration notches.

Take a closer look and you will find the word “LONGER” on it. Then, try to find a small handle that touches a wire. Once you locate that small handle, turn it towards the word “LONGER”.

After completing the steps, turn on your furnace and let it run for a few hours. If it works alright, then you’re done. However, if the furnace is still turning on and off, just repeat the steps given above. Continue doing so until the problem stops.

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HAVE A SAFE AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!

THE BEST IN CHICAGO FURNACE REPAIR. NEED YOUR FURNACE REPAIRED IN CHICAGO?  VISIT US ON THE WEB AT WWW.AROUNDTHETOWNHVAC.COM OR CALL 312-243-9896

It is that time of year once again; time to begin thinking about furnace maintenance. Los Angeles residents know that home heating systems tend to be hassle-free and simple to maintain. Efficiency in operation is a great indication that proper regular maintenance is in good practice. It does not matter which type of furnace that you own, there are many things that can be done to make sure that your home heating system remains in tip-top condition, ensuring your families comfort year after year.

If a heating system malfunctions, it may be any one of the three main components causing the problem. The three main components of a heating system are the thermostat, the heat source and the system for distribution. If the furnace fails to operate properly, the source is usually where you will find the malfunction. The furnace could possible lose power or fuel may not be getting to the unit. If the unit comes on but none of the warm air reaches the rooms of your home, there may be a problem with the distribution system.

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It’s getting cold, that means we are all rediscovering our central heating after the summer lay off. This includes your tenants. Not wishing to scare landlords here is a list of the cost of rectifying common boiler faults. Landlords it’s time to get saving unless you can persuade your tenants to go green and dispense with central heating and hot water altogether!

Expert, Corgi registered gas engineer Brian Philmore, rates the common boiler faults in order of the problems he most commonly faces.

Printed circuit board
£220 to replace. The PCB is the heart of the boiler, connecting everything together. Without it the boiler can’t function.

Automatic air vent
£85 to replace. An automatic air vent lets out air that collects within the boiler.

Pump
£200 to replace. The pump moves the heated water from the boiler through the pipe work to the radiators, and back to the boiler for re-heating.

Overheat thermostat
£95 to replace. The overheat thermostat is a safety device to stop the boiler overheating if the control thermostat fails.

Heat exchanger
£350 to replace. Heats the water by transferring energy from the gas, if this goes it can be very expensive to replace.

Expansion vessel
£140 to replace. The expansion vessel stops the heating system from being over-pressurized.

Gas valve
£180 to replace. The gas valve regulates the flow of gas to the burner.

Burner
£150 to replace. Mixes air and gas to be burned inside the boiler.

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Many dwellings are currently centrally heated. With a couple of small changes to the central heating controls the system can be made much more energy efficient. Installation of a basic timer or a more complex heating system programmer will allow you to moderate when the heating and the hot water are operating. Fixing the periods when energy is actively being used will definitely cut your charges.

Room thermostats which automatically turn the heating off at a particular temperature will also preserve energy. energy use is limited to that required to preserve in the room warmth level at the set level. Each areas temperature can be individually manipulated by fitting radiator thermostat valves. This is a recommended way of holding the bedroom temperatures lower than that in the ground floor areas.

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US Solar Heating proudly introduces two new solar air heating products to supplement their wall and roof installation systems. These new products continue US Solar Heating’s mission to make solar heaters affordable and easy for anybody who wants to use solar thermal energy.

- Portable Unit
Pick up and go on the road with the renewable power of solar energy. Weighing in at 10 lbs this unit delivers output temperatures of up to 130 degrees Fahrenheit. It is designed to be used in an RV, boat, camper, pop-up, tent, etc. The portable unit from US Solar Heating can replace a possibly dangerous space heater and burns no gas and requires no electricity. Order yours today before your next trip.

Have Solar Air Heater – Will Travel

- Window Unit
Want to add solar heat to your condo or apartment but your building will not allow you to drill holes through a wall or roof. The new Window Unit from US Solar Heating is the perfect solution for you. It is the easiest way to add solar air heating to your a residence. There is no installation needed. Just set ii on your windowsill and forget it. Students can even use it in their dormitory.

Renters, students, outdoors-people, RV enthusiasts, and all others can benefit from these products.

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Well the forecast for Chicago heating bills is estimated to be 10 to 15% higher then last years heating bills, according to Peoples Gas. So, here are some ways that you can implement reduction of heat loss and curb that new “appreciated” bill that will be coming soon to your mailbox:

* Lowering your thermostat by one degree can save as much as 3 to 5 percent on the average heating bill
* Replace your furnace filters four times a year. If you can’t remember when to do it, either put the schedule on your Blackberry or when the season changes, the filter changes.
* Have the furnace cleaned every year for efficiency.
* Replace your old windows to energy efficient Low “E” Windows
* Outlet insulators
* Wrap that hot water tank!
* Attic insulation - this is where the heat escapes! By maintaining or adding adequate insulation is the smartest move you can make and the cheapest.
* And for those of you who don’t want to pull out that window air unit - why are you heating the outside.

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The thermostat, a heat-sensitive switch, is the basic control that regulates the temperature of your home.

It responds to changes in the temperature of the air where it is located and turns the furnace or air conditioner on or off as needed to maintain the temperature at a set level, called the set point. The key component of the thermostat is a bimetallic element that expands or contracts as the temperature increases or decreases in a house.Older thermostats have two exposed contacts. As the temperature drops, a bimetallic strip bends, making first one electrical contact and then another. The system is fully activated when the second contact closes, turning on the heating system and the anticipator on the thermostat. The anticipator heats the bimetallic element, causing it to bend and break the second electrical contact. The first contact is not yet broken, however, and the heater keeps running until the temperature rises above the setting on the thermostat.

More modern thermostats have coiled bimetallic strip elements, and the contacts are sealed behind glass to protect them from dirt. As the temperature drops, the bimetallic elements start to uncoil. The force exerted by the uncoiling of the elements separates a stationary steel bar from a magnet at the end of the coil. The magnet comes down close to the glass-enclosed contact, pulls up on the contact arm inside the tube, and causes the contacts to close, completing the electrical circuit and turning on the heater and the anticipator. As the air in the room heats up, the coil starts to rewind and breaks the hold of the magnet on the contact arm. The arm drops, breaks the circuit, and turns off the system. As this point, the magnet moves back up to the stationary bar, keeping the contacts open and the heater turned off until the room cools down again.

The latest heat and air-conditioning controls use solid-state electronics for controlling the air temperature. They are typically more accurate and more responsive than older systems. However, repair to solid-state controls usually means replacement.

Understanding how the heating and cooling systems function in your home will help you head off problems before they become too serious.

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Heating systems are usually trouble-free and easy to maintain. Efficient operation is a function of good regular maintenance. No matter what type of furnace you have, there are several things you can do to keep your heating system in top condition. In this article, we will tell you how to service and troubleshoot your furnace, regardless of the type.

When a heating or cooling system malfunctions, any one of its three components — heat/cold source, distribution system, or thermostat — may be causing the problem. If the furnace or air conditioner doesn’t run, the malfunction is probably at the source. The furnace or air conditioner may have lost power. Fuel may not be reaching the unit. If the fuel is gas or oil, it may not be igniting. If the furnace or air conditioner turns on but the warm or cool air isn’t reaching the rooms of your home, the problem is likely to be the blower or distribution system. And a faulty control, or thermostat, could keep the system from turning on or could cause it to turn on and off repeatedly. Whatever the problem, start with the simplest procedures. In most cases, all it takes is patience and common sense.Before you start work on a heating or cooling system, take these preliminary steps:

* Make sure the unit is receiving power. Look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel. Some furnaces have a separate power entrance, usually located at a different panel near the main entrance panel. Some furnaces have fuses mounted in or on the unit.
* If the unit has a reset button, marked RESET and near the motor housing, wait 30 minutes to let the motor cool, then press the button. If the unit still doesn’t start, wait 30 minutes and press the reset button again. Repeat at least once more.
* If the unit has a separate power switch, make sure the switch is turned on.
* Check to make sure the thermostat is properly set. If necessary, raise (or, for an air conditioner, lower) the setting 5º.
* If the unit uses gas, check to make sure the gas supply is turned on and the pilot light is lit. If it uses oil, check to make sure there is an adequate supply of oil.

There are also several important safety factors to remember:

* Before doing any work on any type of heating or cooling system, make sure all power to the system is turned off. At the main electrical entrance panel, trip the circuit breaker or remove the fuse that controls the power to the unit. If you’re not sure which circuit the system is on, remove the main fuse or trip the main circuit breaker to cut off all power to the house. Some furnaces have a separate power entrance, usually at a different panel near the main entrance panel. If a separate panel is present, remove the fuse or trip the breaker there.
* If the fuse blows or the circuit trips repeatedly when the furnace or air conditioner turns on, there is a problem in the electrical system. In this case, do not try to fix the furnace. Call a professional service person.
* If the unit uses gas and there is a smell of gas in your home, do not try to shut off the gas or turn any lights on or off. Get out of the house, leaving the door open, and immediately call the gas company or the fire department to report a leak. Do not reenter your home.
* To keep your heating and cooling systems in top shape, have them professionally serviced once a year. The best time to have a furnace serviced is at the end of the heating season. Because this is the off-season, you can often get a discount, and service is likely to be prompt. Have your air conditioner checked at the same time.

The heat/cold source is the most complicated part of the heating and cooling system, and it’s the part most likely to suffer from neglect. Problems in this area may also lead to distribution problems. Whatever heat/cold source your system uses, give it regular attention to prevent problems.

Dirt is the biggest enemy of your home’s heating and cooling system. It can waste fuel and drastically lower efficiency. Dirt affects all three basic components of the system, so cleaning is the most important part of regular maintenance. Lubrication and belt adjustment at the furnace are also important.

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A thermostat is a highly sensitive control instrument that responds to even the slightest changes in temperature. While it has fewer parts to malfunction than the other components of your heating and cooling system, it can be a source of problems.

What You’ll Need
You’ll want to have these tools on hand to check a thermostat’s calibration:

* Glass tube thermometer
* Tape
* Paper towel
* New dollar bill or soft brush
* Level
* Screwdriver

A thermostat cover that’s improperly installed or inadvertently bumped can cause the heater or air conditioner to fail to start. Or the thermostat base may slip out of level, causing it to operate incorrectly. A far more common problem, however, is dirt. Dirt can affect the thermostat’s calibration and interfere with its operation. If a thermostat set for 70 degrees Farenheit, for example, is really maintaining the temperature at 73 degrees Farenheit, the additional energy used can increase your fuel bill by as much as 7 percent. To prevent this, check your thermostat for accuracy every year before the heating season begins.Other problems with a thermostat can often be traced to switches on the base and wires near the bimetallic element that loosen and become corroded. Tighten loose connections with a screwdriver, and use a cotton swab to clean away corrosion.

Checking Thermostat’s Calibration

Here’s how to check a thermostat’s accuracy and clean it if necessary:

Step 1: Tape glass tube thermometer to wall a few inches away from thermostat. Pad thermometer with paper towel to prevent it from touching wall. Make sure neither thermometer nor thermostat is affected by any outside temperature influences. In some homes, hole in wall behind thermostat through which wires enter is too large, allowing cold air to reach thermostat and affect its reading.

Step 2: Wait about 15 minutes for mercury to stabilize. Then compare reading on thermometer with reading of thermostat needle.

Step 3: If variation is more than a degree, check to see if thermostat is dirty. To examine thermostat, remove faceplate, usually held by a snap or friction catch. Blow away any dust inside it. Do not use a vacuum cleaner; its suction is too great. If thermostat has accessible contact points, rub new dollar bill between them to clean these spots. Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth. If element is coiled, use soft brush for cleaning.

Step 4: If thermostat has mercury vial inside, use level to make sure unit is straight. If thermostat is not straight, loosen mounting screws and adjust thermostat until it is level. Then retighten screws.

Step 5: After cleaning thermostat, check it again with glass thermometer, as detailed in Steps 1 and 2. If thermostat is still not calibrated properly, it should be replaced as detailed below.

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